Easy to follow step-by-step
kitchen cabinet installation
TOOL AND MATERIAL LIST
- Hammer
- Pry bar
- Screwdriver
- Phillips
- Flathead
- Level
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- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Straight edge
- Drill
- 3/16" drill bit
- Saw
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- #8 x 2 1/2" wood screws
- Small finish nails
- C-clamps
- Wood shims
- Stud finder
- Miter box
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STEP 1. Remove Existing Kitchen
Shut off all existing water, power and utility lines. Remove existing
appliances (stove, oven, refrigeration, sink, and dishwasher). It is best to
move these out of the kitchen for easier access to the work area while the
remodeling is being done. Remove old cabinets and countertops. Remove any
moldings from the walls where cabinets are to be installed.
NOTE: IF YOU ARE UNFAMILIAR OR UNSURE OF HOW TO HANDLE UTILITY CONNECTIONS,
HAVE A QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL PERFORM THESE DUTIES.
STEP 2. Uneven Floors & Walls
Some floors and walls have uneven (high or low) spots, which will affect the
installation. It will be necessary to locate these uneven areas and shim or
scribe cabinets in order to make the installation plumb, true and square.
Use the following procedures to identify your uneven areas.
FLOORS

Using a straight 2 x 4 and carpenter's level, find the high point of the
floor (See Illustration A). Check all around the room
within 24" of the wall where base cabinets will be attached. From the high
point, mark a level horizontal line with a marker along the straight edge on
the walls where the cabinets will be attached.This will be called the base
level line. From the base level lines you just marked, measure up 34 1/2"
and mark another level horizontal line for the base cabinets and 84", 90" or
96" for the tall and wall cabinets (depending on the height of the tall and
wall cabinets).The top of your base, tall and wall cabinets will be located
on these marks.
WALLS

Mark the outlines of all the cabinets on the wall to check
actual cabinet dimensions against your layout to confirm that the kitchen
design used will work (See Illustration B).
NOTE:When measuring the wall space be sure to use the cabinet front
frame dimension and not the box dimension.The front frame of the cabinet
overhangs the box by 3/16" on each end. Therefore, any measurements on the
wall must coincide with the front frame measurements of each cabinet.
Using a 2 x 4 and a carpenter's evel, check the walls for uneven spots.Wall
unevenness can cause cabinets to be misaligned resulting in racking or
misalignment of the doors and drawer fronts. At the point where these uneven
spots interfere, high spots should be removed by scraping and sanding off
excess plaster or sheet rock. Low spots should be shimmed with pieces of
wood shims.
STEP 3. Finding the Studs

Locate the wall studs with the use of a magnetic stud finder or by
tapping on the wall gently to find a "solid" sound. Verify the position of
your studs by driving a small finishing nail into the wall. Make sure that
you do this in an area that will be covered up by a cabinet. Mark all the
studs on the walls that cabinets will be installed (See Illustration
C). You are now ready to begin the installation of your new
cabinets. First you must remove all of the doors and drawers from your
cabinets.

STEP 4. Installation of the Corner Wall Cabinet
Nail a 1" x 2" wood furring strip with its bottom edge on the tall or wall
cabinet line that you previously marked. You must begin your
installation in a corner. Measure from the corner to the first stud
mark and transfer the measurement to the inside of the cabinet to be
installed. Repeat this step for each and every stud. Now
drill a 3/16" hole through the hang rail inside of the cabinet 3/4" down
from the top and 3/4" up from the bottom. Raise 1" x 2" the cabinet up into
place against the 1" x 2" wood furring strip and support it underneath with
a wood t-brace made from scrap lumber (See Illustration D).
Fasten the cabinet to the wall with #8 x 2 1/2" wood screws. Do not fully
tighten the screws.
NOTE:When installing a blind wall cabinet, make sure the
cabinet is pulled out from the wall the appropriate distance as called for
in your kitchen plan. See Specifications book for blind cabinet installation
instructions.
STEP 5. Installation of the Next Wall Cabinet

Follow instructions in Step #4 to hang the next wall cabinet. Again, do
not fully tighten the screws. Using two C-clamps, align the vertical stiles
of the adjoining cabinets and hold tightly together. Drill pilot holes at
hinge level through the stile of the second cabinet and just barely into the
stile of the first cabinet. Using #8 x 2 1/2" wood screws tighten securely
(See Illustration E). Then, after making sure both cabinets
are plumb and level, shimming where necessary, tighten all screws securely
to the wall. Now continue this procedure around the room. It is important to
secure all cabinets together before shimming for plumb and level. Only then
should you screw the cabinets tightly to the wall.
STEP 6. Installing Fillers and Valances

Fillers are needed to take up odd dimensions when cabinets
are installed next to a wall. They also allow clearance for doors and
drawers to operate properly when turning a corner with a blind corner
cabinet. A filler may have to be cut to size when used to take up an odd
dimension next to a wall. Hold the filler in place, turn it over and on the
back side make a pencil mark at top and bottom where it should be cut. Join
the two marks with a pencil line and saw along that line. Put the filler in
place and drill a pilot hole at hinge level through the cabinet stile and
into the filler. Attach filler to the adjacent cabinet by fastening together
with three #8 x 2 1/2" wood screws (See Illustration F).
Valances are installed in a similar manner; however, if trimming is
necessary, you should cut from both ends equally so the valance design
remains symmetrical.

STEP 7. Installation of the Base Cabinets in the Corner
WHEN USING A CORNER BLIND CABINET proceed as follows: Shim so the top of the
cabinet is at the 34 1/2" mark on the wall. Attach loosely to the wall by
screwing into the wall studs through the hanging rail with #8 x 2 1/2" wood
screws as previously described. Attach filler to the adjacent cabinet and
fasten the two cabinets together also using the same procedures (See
Illustration G).
NOTE:When installing a blind base cabinet, make sure the cabinet is
pulled out from the wall the appropriate distance as called for in your
kitchen plan. See Specifications book for blind cabinet installation
instructions.

WHEN USING A ROTATING OR EASY REACH CORNER BASE attach the adjacent
cabinets to the carousel by drilling a pilot hole at hinge level through the
stile of the adjacent cabinets into the stiles of the carousel. Screw
together using #8 x 2 1/2" wood screws. Place the three cabinets as one unit
into the corner and fasten to the wall through the hanging rail of the two
adjacent cabinets, as previously described (See Illustration H).
Install countertop support braces as shown on the wall at the 34 1/2"
horizontal base cabinet level line.

WHEN USING A BASE CORNER FILLER fasten the two adjacent cabinets to the
filler by drilling through the stile at hinge level of the cabinets into the
base corner filler. Screw together. Place the three pieces into the corner
as one unit and attach to the wall through the cabinet hanging rail as
previously described. Now make sure all cabinets are plumb and level. Shim
where necessary and tighten all screws (See Illustration I).
Install countertop support braces as shown on the wall at the 34 1/2"
horizontal base cabinet level line.
STEP 8. Installing the Next Cabinet Using the Same Procedure
The remaining base cabinets are installed in the same manner. Using the two
C-clamps, align stiles, drill and screw together as described in Step 5.
Proceed around the room making sure all cabinets are plumb and level,
shimming where necessary, then tighten all screws (See Illustration
J).
STEP 9. Countertop Installation
Carefully place new countertop on cabinets.Attach countertops by screwing
through the pre-drilled cabinet corner braces (See Illustration K
and L).

STEP 10. Trim and Molding
Trim molding is used to trim out cabinetry where cabinets meet an adjacent
wall, soffit, or ceiling. Carefully measure and cut to proper length.When
moldings meet at a 45-degree angle, use your miter box for a proper cut. Use
small finish nails or a pin nailer to attach the molding to the face frame
of the cabinet (See Illustration M).
STEP 11. Final Touch-up and Door Adjustment
Now that you have finished installing your beautiful new kitchen you may
notice a few things such as misaligned doors, minor nicks or scratches. Make
all adjustments necessary to bring doors and drawers into perfect alignment.
Make sure all screws are tight.Then touch-up any nicks or scratches that may
have occurred during shipping and handling or cabinet installation. A
touch-up kit is available from your dealer.
STEP 12. Trouble Shooting
The factory has very strict inspections, but problems can happen during the
shipping and handling procedures, as well as during the installation. All
these problems are not the fault of the cabinet manufacturer.We have listed
below several common problems and causes, with simple solutions.
| Problem Situation |
Possible Cause |
Solution |
| Large gaps on top or bottom of door against
face frame |
1. Hinge needs adjustment or cabinet out of
square.
2. Very dry conditions can cause door warpage. |
1. Check cabinet alignment for level and
plumb. Adjust cabinet and door hinge.
2.Try to control humidity level at 35O . |
| Double doors do not line up top or bottom. |
Cabinets mounted on wall crooked or out of
square. |
1. Loosen screws and use shims to align
cabinet.
2. Loosen door hinge screws and adjust. |
| Drawer face panel will not fit flush
against cabinet. |
Drawer track glide out of adjustment. |
1. Remove drawer and position glide near
center.
2. Insert drawer back on track.This should fix alignment. |

Door Hardware
NOTE: Don't allow screw heads from door hardware to scratch face frames. To
avoid this, countersink screw heads so they can't strike face frame.
CAUTION: Self-cleaning appliances are cleaned by intense
heat during the cleaning cycle. If the oven door gasket does not seal
properly, intense heat may escape from the appliance. Removal of adjacent
doors and drawers is recommended prior to oven cleaning.
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